Posts Tagged ‘repair’

Replacing the sub-bass driver on a Mission FS2-S.

July 12, 2015

My long-serving Mission FS2-S sub-bass driver succumbed to the passage of time recently, and the rubber diaphragm started to disintegrate. The driver needed replacing. A forum post revealed that Mission would sell you a replacement driver, in October 2014. When I spoke to Mission’s technical department, they don’t stock that driver and that was the end of it as far as they were concerned.
The satellite speakers only work with that cross-over and filter, and I was not ready to replace the entire system. An alternative strategy is to remove the failed speaker, and use a separate (amplified) sub-bass driver. That’s ok, but it’s a second big black box in the corner.
After a bit of searching for 8 ohm 6.5 inch speakers, I found that the Visaton W170 appeared to be a drop-in replacement. The power rating is not quite as high as the original part (40W versus 55W for the original). But the fixing centres are in the same place, the speaker physically fits in the cabinet, and it even has the same spade terminals. For a mere £20, it’s a bargain repair. Very easy to do. The only “trick” is that the rubber grommets which hold the dust cover on are hiding 6 screws which need to be removed.
As Mission were asking for £40, the price looks brilliant.
I listened to the first twenty minutes of my Blu-ray edition of Blade Runner on it, and it sounded great to my non-calibrated ears.

P1010363

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Little surprises in electronics.

October 4, 2014

On a cheap Yuan Hung Lo MR16 LED lamp, it was a pleasant surprise to find silkscreen print on the tiny PCB showing the orientation of the surface mount rectifier diodes.

SMT diode replacement on a MR16 LED lamp.

SMT diode replacement on a MR16 LED lamp.

I had taken a photo of the board before starting work, and I will be cleaning off the flux before putting the lamp back in to service. At this stage I had only replaced two of the four diodes.

Ford Focus Mk2 key fob repair.

January 29, 2014

Are the buttons not working properly on your key fob? Order three KSR211GLFS Tactile Switches, and break out the soldering iron. I was able to buy them for a sensible price on ebay.

I’m writing this up because I saw the part number on someone else’s blog, and I can’t remember the URL or name of it. To that mystery person, thank you for posting the part number.

A little note about the batteries for the Philips SHC5100 wireless headphones.

November 22, 2012

The gist of it is don’t rush out and buy the specific part (HB550S).
Buy a pair of regular (Nickel Metal Hydride) AAA size rechargeable cells, try and aim for about the same capacity of 550mAh. Then carefully cut about 3 or 4 mm of the plastic wrap from the negative end of the cell.
Have a look at this image for a guide.
Remember that most of the metal can is the negative electrode, so be careful to prevent accidental short circuits with the extra metal exposed.
If you look in the battery compartment of the headphones, there is an extra metal finger which contacts the battery on the side. This is how the headphones detect if the battery is the rechargeable type.

Local business shout-out “Stitch-It” for clothes repairs in Barrow-in-Furness.

June 4, 2012

Just to say I have had my Gore Phantom biking jacket’s zip replaced at:

“Stitch-It”
61 Scott Street
Barrow-in-Furness
Cumbria
LA14 1QE
07706 137082

For the sum of £14.50, and the result is very good. You really have to scrutinise the jacket closely to see that the zip has been replaced. Well done “Stitch-It”.

Fixing the car key fob.

April 18, 2010

I found myself replacing the battery in my mother’s car key fob. The car is a 2001 Vauxhall/Opel Zafira. When I had prised the key part from the electronic transponder, and was about the remove the battery (a common CR2032) I noticed the battery holder seemed to be a bit more mobile that I would have expected.
Then I spotted why it was loose. I suspect it’s a result of years of use, the negative pin of the battery holder was just sitting in the hole on the PCB. Making a poor and intermittent contact.
That explains lots of things. It explains the poor range on the radio, it explains why the key fob often needs re-synchronising with the car.
So I set-up the soldering iron, and removed the old solder from the hole, re-flowed in new solder. Now the key fob works well, and the range has noticeably improved.
I wouldn’t like to say how much the local Vauxhall dealer would charge for a replacement key fob, particularly when they charged 7UKP for a 2UKP battery a year ago.

P.S. To re-synchronise the key fob; use the key to open the driver’s door. Insert the key, check mother hasn’t left the car in gear (bad habit on the flat), turn the key to the second position. Hold the ‘lock’ button until you hear the doors lock and unlock. Remove key, job done, look smug.

When tracing a power fault on a laptop…

July 18, 2009

… check the power supply first. 🙂

If, like me, you decide to disassemble the laptop first, it will probably turn out to be a waste of time An educational waste of time perhaps.